Treasure Island is our dream – a fever dream, our guide calls it—our dream of riches, our dream of military might, our dream of a little place to get away from it all, if only for a moment. “Look away from the views,” our guide requests, turn away from the postcard image, the picturesque. Everything is not alright. Named after the dream of pirates, we built this island of silt and loam—dredged it up, quite literally—to display our outsized dreams of what the future might possess for us and what we might possess in it. Later, our guide tell us, the island was to become an airport, a dream upstaged for another theater, another set. And, as the military is wont to do, once they settled in, it was a good long time before they made their exit. And, as is also customary, they left the place in much worse shape than they found it. The island is man made and, like all of our once-shining locales, so is its devastation. This afternoon we are joined by both apparitions and inhabitants, the latter interrogated so thoroughly by one tour member—“We have a native here! –so as to make this visitor uncomfortable. But I’ll admit, I eavesdropped. He pays $1900 for his place. His neighbors pay $300. The ultimate verdict of life on the island? “It’s pretty nice. Except for the toxic waste.”
Questions arise (and our guide’s insistent refrain: “I haven’t been able to get anyone to answer that.”)
Why is one building on this island inhabitable while the one next door is shuttered, fenced off?
A moth eradication project here, really?
What of the black SUVs that pull in and out of the restricted area at night? (“it’s the only site with its own private security. But since it’s a hazardous waste zone, it’s unclear to my why anyone would want to break in.”
As well as facts:
The condition of leases on the island is that there is no planting or eating food from the ground
Dramas staged here: Hulk, Flubber, Rent, Nash Bridges
Trainings/experiments staged here: police motorcycle training, fire training, military training, moth eradications testing, toxin research, earthquake simulation – “Constant rehearsals for disaster on an island itself that is a hazardous waste site and basically a sinkhole.”
Current population: 2,000.
Planned population (in eco-village): 13,000
Previous plans for island: women’s prison, Olympic center, casino, conference center, old growth redwood museum (w/ imported trees)
Our guide talks of a “reframing of the built environment for things that are no longer of use.” Our dreams, today, lack utility. And yet, here we stand, backs turned to the gleaming city, listening to a song.